When it comes to tomatoes, I can't hold back. I love them and I taste nearly every one I can find (at least every promising one), be they fresh or canned. It's always a-kid-on-Christmas-morning moment. But most tomato anticipation ends up like those Christmases of long ago when your aunt wrapped the white cotton underwear in the Lego box.
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The goal of this canned tomato tasting is to save you from that sort of disappointment, at least in the kitchen.
Eset smart security key. The Standard: The canned tomato we're looking for is rich with layer upon layer of come-hither tastes, and has a delicious teetering between sweet and acid. Why bother with exceptional? Because the outstanding tomato is packed with umami, that fascinating substance that makes that tomato, and everything it touches, sing. What great tomatoes can do for recipes borders on the remarkable.
Back in 2007, we (managing producer Sally Swift and myself) set out to see if this tomato existed in a can. We were finishing our book, The Splendid Table's How to Eat Supper. It turned out that the canned tomato lived!
To find out if it still exists, I gathered some of the canned tomatoes most readily available in supermarkets. Whole canned tomatoes are my preference because there's less chance that tomato paste (not the best-tasting), has been added for thickening, as is sometimes done in purees.
The Tomatoes in Order of Preference
These were tasted straight from the can. A small amount of salt was added to the Italian imports, which are often unsalted. Most American canned tomatoes are salted.
1. Muir Glen Organic Whole Peeled Tomatoes (The label states there is no BPA, or Bisphenol A, in its can lining.) This is the stand out. None of the other brands came close. A tomato you can eat straight from the can, it's big and rich tasting with an ideal balance of acid and sweet.
2. Red Gold Whole Peeled Tomatoes Not deep and rich enough to be a winner but the balance between sweet, tart and savory is OK. This used to be a first choice for me before Muir Glen came along.
3. Pomi Chopped Tomatoes Packaged in a box, Pomi comes from the Parma area of Northern Italy and is only sold chopped or pureed. The tomato flavor is thin, not rich and full, but well balanced. Use Pomi where you want light tomato character.
4. Hunt's Whole Peeled Plum Tomatoes Sweetness is the first taste you get, followed by slightly off-kilter tomato flavors. Not bad, just not all that exceptional. Their balance is off.
5. Cento San Marzano Certified Peeled Tomatoes Imported from Southern Italy and certified as true San Marzano tomatoes. These are too weak-kneed and bland to have much appeal. The tomato flavor has an unpleasant acid edge. What is it with San Marzano Tomatoes? Their PR shines; every chef recommends them, but I wonder how many have actually tasted them next to American tomatoes. For me, after 30-some years of eating them on both sides of the Atlantic, I have yet to be wowed by more than a few brands (most, not easily found here). DOP San Marzano fruit, DOP (protected designation of origin) is the designation that appears on the can insuring that the tomatoes inside were grown in the original Sarnese Nocerino area near Naples where supposedly the true San Marzano began.
6. Whole Foods 365 Organic Whole Peeled Tomatoes Where did these tomatoes come from? There's not much in the way of redeeming flavors. They are too sweet without enough tomato richness and acid to save the day. You expect a lot more from this brand.
[Disclosure: This tomato taste test was conducted in October 2012, at a time when The Splendid Table had no business relationship with any canned tomato company. In July 2014, we were thrilled to welcome Muir Glen as an underwriter of our program. While this relationship now prevents us from including them in current taste tests, you can rest assured that we will continue our hunt for great-tasting tomatoes.]
We've heard it all before. San Marzanos are the best canned tomatoes in the world, the crème de la crème, the gold standard by which all others must be judged. Back in the day, hunting down a can of them took time and effort; nowadays, you'll find a few different varieties on the shelves in most supermarkets. And that's a good thing, right? After all, San Marzanos are famous for their sweetness and their tomato-ey intensity, plus a delicate acidity that can balance out rich meats and cheeses. But is the San Marzano reputation more hype than fact? We pitted store-bought varieties of canned whole tomatoes (including San Marzanos and plain old plum tomatoes) against each other in a blind taste test.
Since no one really likes the taste of whole tomatoes straight from the can, I prepped all five varieties we tested in the same way: I crushed the whole tomatoes by hand, stirred in 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt, and simmered them for 25 minutes. Each variety of cooked tomato was placed into separate numbered tasting bowls for a blind tasting with the Epi staff. We immediately started making a mess of ourselves, slurping sauce to assess acidity, sweetness, and texture, and cleansing our palates between bites with bread.
We assumed that, unlike peanut butter, there wouldn't be a whole lot of variation among canned tomatoes. One tomato in a can should be like, well, a tomato in a can. But it turned out that comparing can to can was a lot more like comparing apples to, say, aardvarks.
The biggest surprise? Which brand came out on top.
The Runners Up
MUIR GLEN San Marzano-Style Whole Peeled Tomatoes
This commonly available organic supermarket brand uses a similar breed of tomato as the classic San Marzano, but it's grown in California rather than the San Marzano region of Italy. It had just the right amount of sweetness, testers said, but fell a little flat in overall acidity. Most editors picked this one as a prime choice for making marinara and it came in second place to the winner.
BUY IT: MUIR GLEN San Marzano-Style Whole Peeled Tomatoes, $13 on Amazon
Simpson Imports SAN MARZANO Whole Peeled Tomatoes
You’ve probably seen this variety in the white can with just “San Marzano” written on the side. Tasters loved the clean, authentic tomato taste, and Senior Editor Anya Hoffman felt a little vindication when she chose this variety as her favorite in the blind test (it's the kind she uses at home).
BUY IT: San Marzano Whole Peeled Tomatoes, $10 on Amazon
CENTO ORGANIC WHOLE PEELED TOMATOES
This organic variety was one of two canned tomato varieties we tested that didn't contain calcium chloride as a preservative (the other was the ultra-fancy Gustarosso brand below). Senior Writer Sam Worley picked this variety as the most balanced, while other tasters pointed out a lively acidity that in some cases, went a little too far. Test Kitchen Assistant Kat Boytsova didn't see that as a downside—she suggested using the acidic tomatoes to your advantage by braising them with tougher cuts of meat.
BUY IT: Cento San Marzano Peeled Tomatoes, $4 from Target
GUSTAROSSO POMODORO S. MARZANO DELL'AGRO SARNESE-NOCERINO D.O.P.
If canned tomatoes were cars, this imported Italian variety would be like the Ferrari: Fancy, flashy, and almost triple the price of the others. What makes this variety so special? First off, it's the San Marzano variety of tomato, famous for its rich flavor, tender texture, and mild acidity. What's more, they're actually grown in Italy, in the Valle de Sarno region, the only place where San Marzano tomatoes can earn the coveted 'Pomodoro S. Marzano dell'Agro Sarnese-Nocerino' label and meet the E.U.'s standards for 'D.O.P.,' or a 'designation of protected origin'. Even setting aside the label, as soon as I opened the can, I could tell these these tomatoes were different. They were the softest, and when they were cooked, they almost immediately collapsed into a smooth sauce.
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Sounds pretty dreamy, right? Wrong. Surprisingly, these tomatoes were almost universally disliked, with complaints about bland flavor and an “awful mushy texture.” Perhaps they'd be more tempting when tossed with pasta, but on their own, these San Marzanos let us down.
BUY IT: Gustarosso San Marzano Tomatoes, $7 on Amazon
Our Top Pick
Redpack Whole Peeled Plum Tomatoes
This US-owned company (all of the tomatoes are grown on family-owned farms in Indiana) delivered on what we always wanted: a pure tomato flavor with a balance of acidity and sweetness. Sam loved that this variety was “sweeter than some of the others, but sort of a nice jammy sweetness.” Aside from being the best canned tomatoes we tried, these were also the cheapest. You know that one about books and covers? Turns out that goes double for tomatoes and labels. (Note: In some parts of the country Redpack is sold as Red Gold.)
Muir Glen Organic Tomatoes
BUY IT: Redpack Whole Peeled Plum Tomatoes (12 Pack), $36 on Amazon
All products featured on Epicurious are independently selected by our editors. If you buy something through our retail links, we may earn a small affiliate commission.
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